Tucked away on the edge of a small Cotswold village is a quite extraordinary church, though it you would not guess this from the outside. St Nicholas at Oddington. I cycled out on Marjorie recently to see for myself. The church is located outside the village, as it is no longer the central place of worship, the original village being abandoned in the early 18th century and located further up the hill, possibly due to the usual cause of the Black Death.
Looking like a typically picturesque Cotswold church, it has an interesting graveyard and some unusual Restoration era tombstones, which are shown on my other blog here.
The South door inner archway is Norman and has an interesting serpents head detail at each end - maybe a reminder of why you are attending worship?
The stone benches inside have deep grooves which are said to be where arrowheads were sharpened. (Churches this old were also commonly the main defensive building and weapons stored in the porch roof).
So far, so quaint and historical. But when you enter the church proper, your breath is taken away by this -
What is thought to be our country's largest surviving Doom wall painting, dating to about 1340. I was literally rooted to the spot: imagine the effect it must have had on the original devout and largely illiterate Medieval congregation. Like all Dooms, this one shows in graphic and often lurid detail, the consequences of sin and the rewards of righteousness. The Godly are summoned to Heaven on Judgement Day by welcoming angels;
Christ sits over all in Glory.
For the Damned, sinister demons execute all manner of grisly tortures, to be endured for all eternity. Once you get used to looking at the (now) sombre tertiary tones it's quite easy to work out what torments are going on.
This part of the Doom is of a later date (1520) and there has been some speculation as to what this figure represents. The church pamphlet suggests that it is a reference to a contemporary play by the writer John Skelton, 'Magnificence' and it's various characters.
Seen with Jacobean pulpit nearby -
Looking down towards the 'newer' Early English Chancel -
Elsewhere there are traces of more decorations on the Early English archways here - the vivid turquoise blue coming from copper salt pigment.
But the Doom is not the oldest paintings to be found here - they are inside what was the original Saxon nave (where I am standing to take this photo) and chancel, and is now the South Chapel. It's easy to see how small and intimate it once was. (Note the old gurney, just to the right, a cheery little reminder of one's own mortality).
Inside the chancel which is also the bell tower and if you look beyond you can see on the far wall, to the right, some pale patterning. The first altar stone is still there as well.
A closer look shows trellis work and faces - as with all my photos, they are quite large, so do click on for detail.
There are always many layers to a church, and sometimes more recent relics can be just as touching as the antiquities - I love this little bell ringer's prayer, maybe about 30-40 years old, and probably barely moved since the day it was placed there.
And another *recent* treasure, this screen separating the old South Chapel from the main nave, looks quite plain and unremarkable, until you learn that it was made by Peter Van der Waals, an Arts and Crafts craftsman who worked in the Cotswolds at the beginning of the 20th century. As the church was being restored at this time, 1912, it must have been part of the restoration process, but I am speculating here.
After a very long time of pottering and wonderment, Marjorie and I cycled back towards Oddington. What had been a clear blue summer sky was now clouding over and we had eight miles to cover.
Needless to say we didn't make it. Two miles from home, the rain caught up with us. I arrived home drenched, but happy.
For more reading on the marvellous church and it's paintings, please visit here.
That really is extraordinary. Thank you for sharing it.ReplyDelete
Fascinating. Despite living nearby I've never visited the church - will have to make the effort. Know the pubs in the village well, 'though!ReplyDelete
I'm sure I wouldn't mind arriving home drenched after spending a day cycling through the picturesque countryside and discovering such amizng paintings.ReplyDelete
Hard to get my head around how old they actually are........
Where did they get that turquoise pigment? Can you imagine how startling those images must have been when the color was vivid? Great find, Gretel!ReplyDelete
Gretel this post, and its companion piece about what is outside this remarkable church, really show your talent at taking your readers to marvelous places. You are a very generous hostess.ReplyDelete
Had you visited this place before? If not, how did you choose to visit it now? To my eye, this church has a beautiful spirit, and is a place I would definitely want to visit. Via bike, and not be bothered about getting very wet on the ride home.
Must add this to our 'To visit ' list - wall paintings are terrific and one can almost feel the atmosphere from the photos.ReplyDelete
You are just the best guide ever! All that beauty and we didn't even have to get wet! Thank you so much for sharing.ReplyDelete
This looks a lovely little church and the wall paintings are certainly spectacular. It's surprising how many of these Doom paintings are around, there's part of one in the church at Eyam not far from here. It's wonderful that so much of the original Saxon church is still there, so often there's an odd window or bit of wall but most remains have been hidden away or even destroyed by Victorian 'restorations'.ReplyDelete
The tombs on your other blog are wonderful but the doom is something else! Magnificent - one day I shall visit. There's also a Doom, unusually on wood, near here in Wenhaston, which I am going to have a look at later today http://www.wenhaston.net/doom/index.php I do like a good Doom!ReplyDelete
Dear Gretel, what a wonderful trip. I have enjoyed it so much.ReplyDelete
In my next life, I shall have a Marjorie and I shall cycle to all of these lovely churches, through the beautiful country. I will bring along my very old copy of The Book of Common Prayer, which is not dumbed down and stripped of the poetry of its words.
For now, I am ever grateful to you that I can see through your own eyes such history and loveliness.
Gretel, I am in tiny Tonganoxie, KS, US... and this is the most wonderful post I have read this entire month! Thank you so much for showing us this beautiful ancient church... I really appreciated it!ReplyDelete
Having not heard of the Oddington Doom, I reached for the Pevsner, and.... it fell open at Oddington. Crikey, *dum dum dooommmmm* ...a trip beckons, evidently!ReplyDelete
We were down in Devon not long back, taking photos of Lust on the wall at Branscombe for the cover of Deborah Harvey's book of pomes. Can't have too many wall paintings, I say. The Devil says you can have too much Lust, though. Careful, now.
How extraordinary it must be to live in England, where there's history just sitting out in the open for anyone to look at. Wonderful pictures and commentary, thanks so much!ReplyDelete
I am so in awe at the beauty and history that surrounds you. How wonderful to see and be hugged by such history. I envy your fortune.ReplyDelete
Such picturesque country and fascinating history. Thanks for sharing your part of the world.ReplyDelete