Cotswold Lambs

Last week we went up to the Cotswold Hills on a chilly spring day. As we parked the bike, a farmer drove into a field on a quad bike, towing a high sided trailer. Four lambs and two ewes tumbled out. We got chatting to the farmer, who was very proud of this year's results; it's been an excellent year for sheep and we were pleased to hear it. These little ones were only two days old, but after just a few minutes in the brisk Easterly wind, (which you can hear whipping round us) they were exploring their new world with a joyful curiosity. Down in the valley, gangs of lambs charged about and bounced around.

A little Saxon church

This is one part of the tale of two churches, lying within a mile or so of each other. The first church (as seen in my previous post 'A Cotwolds bonbon') is the one situated above, in the village of Coln St Dennis and is Norman in origin, though almost certainly built on the site of a previous Saxon church. We visited both on a chilly Spring day last week. Each is a tiny, simple jewel, and each contains a similar story with different endings. To visit this first one, you need to go over to my other blog. But here, we are continuing our walk, on to Coln St Rogers.

Instead of following this inviting lane, we turned off left, and took a sideways route along the riverbank, the church just visible to our right.

The pussy willow was out - who can resist stroking the silky soft furry buds?

The South porch is a later addition, as is the bell tower.

Inside, an earlier, Norman entrance with recessed Typanum (the top of the arch).

We are still in the early learning stage of 'reading a church' and our slim knowledge is often confused and groping - which is a shame because this marvellous little building is as rich in history as any grand cathedral. The central chancel arch seen here is apparently part of the first Saxon building, making at least 1,000 years old. St Andrews is a rare example of an very early church which has retained much of its original ground plan.

On top of the solid stone jambs, pellet ornament and you can see behind Saxon 'long and short work' - the supporting masonry surrounding the tall window. The pulpit to the right of the chancel arch is from the later Gothic 'Perpenicular period'; the late 1300's to the 1500's.

There are more wonderful old features than I could possibly list here, but we intend to return and I will continue my lecture another day. One final poppet - the remains of a Gothic period glass figure of St Margaret, about the same age as the stone pulpit (1300's - 1500's).

On the way out I picked up a jar of homemade marmalade -

Sat on top of the Norman tub-shaped font in a tupperware box -

and only 80p. It's an honesty system and you pop your money in a little 'letterbox' safe in the wall.

A country church may appear deserted, but there will be some neighbour keeping a watchful eye on the odd visitor. Here I found Andy with a volunteer gardener, discussing the Great War (World War One) and the devastating impact it had on the population of British villages. And here is the parting of the way in my tale of two villages.

For while in neighbouring Coln St Dennis, many young lives were lost, miraculously all the servicemen from Coln Rogers - and one woman who was in the Voluntary Aid Detachment - returned. I found myself wondering what repercussions this had on relationships between the villages, which, being in an isolated spot and so close to each other, must have had tight bonds. Were there undercurrents of resentment or a general feeling of thankfulness that at least some had been spared?

As usual I am indebted for my clumsy knowledge to the Internet and the useful little pamphlet provided by a local amateur historian.

A Cotswold bonbon

Sometimes we take the bike down an unexplored winding road and end up in the most glorious spots. We didn't walk here, but we had to stop to admire the view. If you right click on the image, you can too.

New Ashmolean extension

A change of environment from the open spaces of the Cotswold countryside, to Oxford, whose great University is built of Cotswold stone, a magnificent golden ornament which glows warmly in the sun. Near the centre of Oxford lies the Ashmolean Museum, where Inspector Morse fans will remember 'The Jewel That Was Ours' is set. Opposite it, and also appearing in that and other Morse dramas, is the stately Randolph Hotel, for the more well off visitors to our city.

So here we were, in the rain, to inspect the new extension, tucked away behind the grand frontage. Would it be a blight or a blessing? It was a blessing. The new galleries are simply breathtaking and a delight. Here is our first view of the open plan design, which allows everyone to see everyone from different galleries - look beyond this little bronze of Rodin's thinker, to the tapestry beyond. Keep it in mind - it will appear later.

There is a dizzying side staircase, overlooked by this upper walkway, which I could not quite capture properly -

Not all of the rooms are ready, but it did not detract from our enjoyment..

There was such a lovely, busy atmosphere, helpful, friendly staff on hand and so many people enjoying the old and new works on display.

Possibly the most spectacular area is this central 'hub' - if a tall, open column of space reaching from the top floor to the ground floor can be called a hub.

It is almost like a hall of mirrors- you look behind you to find you are looking at the section you were in not five minutes previously. Keep an eye on this Korean moon jar - looking through to some ceramic platters...

...cross the hall and there is the moon jar from the other side, with a glimpse of lower floor gallery just beneath it.

Now here is a corner of tapestry - that is the same tapestry we saw beyond Rodin's statuette -

Remember?

And now we are looking up, across to the modern ceramics, and faintly visible through the cabinet, the upper gallery which we started off in.

If you are in Oxford I cannot recommend highly enough a visit to this wonderful new feature. We emerged over three hours later, our heads whirling, but thoroughly satiated.

Thinking of Spring 14th Feb

At present life consists of two things for me - working and walking, in that order. At the moment, working is full time, with little space for anything more than an 'if-I-don't-get-out-I-will-explode' march round the village fields. Last Sunday though, we woke to the first blue skies and sun we'd seen for days, so without stopping for breakfast, we hastened over to one of our favourite walks, to look for signs of Spring.

There are new shoots appearing - not yet on the trees, but certainly in crop fields. We walked across to a lovely farm, the footpath following along the almost purple hogged hedgerow.

First it basked in almost warm sunshine, then dark clouds rolled over and it merged into the landscape like a camouflaged animal.

So I stalked it, getting closer...

...and closer...

Walking round the estate we could sense a stirring - birds jousting with songs, sticky horse chestnut buds swelling, catkins and snowdrops trembling in the chilly breeze. And two large, bronzed hares galloping across a field towards cover.

While the sun was out, it made one hope that maybe the year is on the turn at last.

In a few weeks time, these rich winter neutrals will have transformed to gauzy greens and saffrons.

I am sure of it.

Further reading on this estate

British History online fascinating in-depth reading on the estate, it's long history and the surrounding villages which belong to it, including the farm I have shown here.

A discussion on development and repair of the grade one listed estate house - (not shown here)

English Heritage report on the estate house (with picture)